After a few teething troubles, D&D London’s flagship City steakhouse is getting its act together. The decor’s rather tasteful take on scruffy-chic still impresses with its cool colours, macho dark wood and leather, while the menu plays it straight. There are a few non-bovine options such as lobster macaroni, plump Dover sole or rack of Colne Valley lamb, but steak is the big draw here. USDA corn-fed beef and a ‘superior’ grass-fed version from the UK both come up trumps, thanks in part to spot-on cooking courtesy of the Josper grill. Straightforward but accomplished sides of ‘outrageously tasty’ triple-cooked chips, mac ‘n’ cheese and tomato salad do the job, while the wine list lives up to D&D London’s usual high standard. Polished service also gets the nod. In short, a welcome addition to this part of town.
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