The redoubtable, family-owned Goring has been a hit with the royals for more than a century, and it recently received a royal warrant from Her Majesty – the first she has bestowed on a hotel. No wonder there’s a terrific buzz about the place these days. The restaurant occupies a sunny room with walnut columns, well-spaced tables and eccentric Swarovski chandeliers – a Mecca for power breakfasts, Establishment lunches and low-lit evening romance fuelled by generous amounts of comforting, proudly British food. Everything is served with panache, from rabbit-and-bacon terrine with rhubarb chutney, or lobster-themed eggs Drumkilbo (the Queen Mum’s favourite) to daily roasts from the silver trolley (including excellent beef Wellington) and seasonal puds such as gooseberry fool. The wine list has great depth, although some think it’s ‘grossly overpriced’.
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