Set in a swanky art-deco room off Piccadilly, the fourth branch of barnstorming Hawksmoor is a masculine, moneyed and capacious cocoon, with some art-deco flurries to boot – ‘if they opened in Dubai, it would probably look like this', quipped one reader. Thanks to input from seafood guru Mitch Tonks, the menu now features plenty of fish – although most people still come here for impeccably cooked carnivorous classics that have made Hawksmoor a household name (incomparable British-reared beef, Tamworth belly ribs, and so on). Otherwise, look for seasonal maritime tempters such as steamed Dartmouth lobster or char-grilled monkfish with braised fennel and trotter. Shoppers and theatre-goers appreciate the ‘express' menu, and drinkers can look forward to Hawksmoor's well-chosen wines, craft beers and brilliant cocktails. ‘Refreshingly switched-on staff' are also much appreciated.
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