After seven years plying his Michelin-starred trade at Danesfield House in Marlow, Adam Simmonds has been coaxed back to London – swapping hushed fine dining for a bubbly, brasserie-style eatery complete with art-deco glass pillars, swathes of Marquina marble and a vast centrepiece bar. The unfussy vibe keeps things flexible, with ringside seats by the open kitchen and a deli/patisserie complementing the all-day offering. Fans of TV’s Great British Menu will be familiar with Simmonds’ seriously inventive ways, and the cooking is guaranteed to grab your attention – from lobster with watermelon and black olive tapenade to a brilliant surprise package of strawberry parfait with pea sorbet. In between, our rich, truffle-adorned poached halibut in creamy beurre blanc with spritely pickled onion and cubes of Granny Smith apple was as good a dish as you’ll find anywhere for under £20. Service is as breezy as the vibe, while wines offer huge variety in the sub-£40 range.
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