Having made their reputation on Borough Market, the chaps at Borough Wines have played a blinder in this former railway engineers’ workshop. Now an industrial-chic cave à vin/diner, it’s perfectly pitched at Hackney’s resurgent middle classes. Flanked by shelves stacked with interesting bottles to buy or drink on the premises (an £8 corkage charge applies), big refectory tables accommodate groups of Listrac lefties laying into a predominantly French list opening at £3.50 for a glass of Luberon rosé. There are also cameo appearances by Italy, Hungary, Germany and, unusually, a blackcurrant-burst Domaine du Daley Villette 2008 from Switzerland. Daytime coffees, savouries and pastries give way to a sensibly restrained dinner menu of classic Anglo-continental comfort food: baked ham with piccalilli, steak tartare, confit duck with braised fennel, veggie options and a daily pud – Champagne rhubarb with crème fraîche on our enjoyable visit.
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