Tom Conran's new showcase for Chamucos (his premium Tequila range) comes complete with grungy Mexican Day of the Dead interiors. This dark den feels like the louche ‘shebeen' (illegal drinking den) that occupied this room in 1962, attracting Christine Keeler and her Jamaican squeeze Lucky Gordon in the run-up to the Profumo Affair. Back then, £11 would have bought a flat hereabouts; today it buys a generously poured, well-crafted pomegranate margarita or satanic sunset (Chamucos Blanco Tequila, lime, agave syrup and crème de framboise). Foodwise, Mexican street nibbles are fresh, flavoursome and on the money at £6.25 for three spiced chicken taquitos. A sign claims that chamucos (demons) leave when dawn comes. For mere humans, chucking-out time is a slightly earlier 11.30pm – the only dud note here.
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