Mark Hix’s Tramshed sets out to make an immediate ‘jaw-dropping’ impact, and it’s hard to take your eyes off Damien Hirst’s dramatic centrepiece of a chicken astride a cow (nicknamed ‘Roberta’ by the staff). But the food is also worthy of attention, even if the menu is limited to just two main items: choose from deeply savoury, crisp-skinned chickens impaled on a spike (with feet still attached) or ‘mighty-marbled’ steaks that are on a par with the capital’s best. Starters might bring coley croquettes or a ‘mammoth’ Yorkshire pudding with a side dish of creamy cauliflower purée for dipping, while ‘outstanding’ puds could include raspberry-ripple cheesecake or a salted caramel fondue to share, complete with dunking doughnuts and marshmallows. Some readers gripe about the ‘cold’ ambience, but Tramshed shows no signs of going off the rails.
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