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23 July 2014
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The Fat of the Land

35 New Cavendish Street, London W1G 9TR

Gastropub , Tapas Marylebone

Square Meal Review of The Fat of the Land ?

Following the success of the Queen’s Head & Artichoke and the Norfolk Arms, gastropub pioneers Michael Kittos and Tony Wolfe have moved into Marylebone for their third venture. What was the grand old Duke of York pub has been transformed into The Fat of the Land – a ‘refreshing’, low-key kind of place with a concrete-topped bar serving Spanish beers, regional wines, sangria and sherries, plus a more intimate upstairs dining room for tapas and raciones. Standouts have included a textbook rendition of ‘pa amb tomaquet’ (garlicky toasted bread with tomato), baby squid with black ink, and manchego cheese soaked in red wine, but the kitchen can also knock out bigger plates of cod cheeks al pil-pil or grilled rump of organic Welsh lamb with braised baby onions and bone marrow. To finish, nibble some marzipan ‘cannellet’ cookies with a glass of Moscatel.

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  1. The Fat of the Land

    35 New Cavendish Street, London W1G 9TR
    Overall rating:
     
    Gourmand Gunno
      Gold Reviewer  (98)

     
    • Food & Drink: 8
    • Service: 6
    • Atmosphere: 5
    • Value: 7

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  1. Fat of the Land – Pan-Mediterranean Pub and upstairs Dining Room in Marylebone:   I really liked the idea of a pub serving Spanish tapas and  specialising in Catalonian food.  And, initial impressions of The Fat of the Land were excellent. Downstairs there’s a clean and stylish bar with ham and garlic hanging in the window, but with modern décor.  Upstairs, a dining room with wooden floorboards, individual standard lights for each table and muted colours.  It’s all in very good taste.   We ordered a few para picar, small dishes to keep us going till the tapas arrived.  Smoked eel was the best of the trio – very tender, lightly smoked and pleasantly oily. Pa am tomaquet was just a bit too ‘clean’ for me.  Great bread (sour dough I think), nicely charred with a tiny plate of fresh tomato on one side.  No sign of garlic or oil – and to be honest at this time of year even Spanish tomatoes need a little help to bring out their flavour.  We asked, and were given a bottle of oil which we used to dress the bread which helped a lot. The olives were reasonable. Of the main courses, [...]
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  2. When a visit to a restaurant involves walking past both MEATliquor and Tommi’s Burger Joint, we knew we’d just spend the night hankering after a dirty burger, washed down with a cocktail. However, The Fat of the Land was our destination, a newly opened Spanish gastropub-come-restaurant hidden behind the bustling streets of Marylebone. Run by Michael Kittos and Tony Wolfe, the duo responsible for The Queen’s Head & Artichoke in Regent’s Park and The Norfolk Arms in Bloomsbury. We had high hopes for this place and were really looking forward to some Spanish cuisine, having not had any since our trip to Madrid in September...
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