Blue, rare, medium or well done – that’s as much choice as you get when you sit down at one of the colourfully clothed tables in this no-frills bistro. The winning formula that has packed them in at the Parisian original since 1959 is this: a green salad with walnuts and mustard vinaigrette is followed by plentiful slices of entrecôte steak (28-day aged British beef) cooked how you like it, smothered in a secret-recipe sauce and accompanied by a mountain of fries. Simply add a glass or bottle from the concise list of sturdy French wines. However, the final course turns the stripped-back concept on its head with platters of French cheese and no fewer than 17 desserts: profiteroles, tarte au citron, crème brûlée, and so on. No bookings, so come early or late – or be prepared to queue.
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