Like its sibling on Fetter Lane, 28°-50° is a haven for oenophiles who can sample over 30 wines by the glass or carafe as well as choosing from a bespoke ‘collector’s list’ gleaned from private cellars at greatly reduced mark-ups. As you’d expect from Xavier Rousset and Agnar Sverrisson (the duo behind Michelin-starred Texture), attention has been paid to details and service is excellent. To eat, try exemplary foie gras terrine or a punchy gazpacho served over an olive and cucumber salad, before tackling a meltingly tender onglet or a rich Icelandic fish stew with chunks of cod and potato in a velvety béarnaise sauce. Otherwise, sharing plates, rock oysters and La Fromagerie cheeses encourage more casual grazing. A striking central bar provides focus in the airy dining space, while the more intimate basement boasts an open kitchen.
Xavier Rousset MS’ wine bar/bistro in Marylebone is small, simple and interesting. Key to its success is the wide choice of 50 wines available in two serves of by-the-glass and carafe, as well as bottle. Five Madeiras add a quirky and interesting touch, too. And the whole thing is backed up by a one-page Collector’s List with good, interesting and old fine wines.
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