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17 April 2014
(menu)

Green Man & French Horn

54 St Martins Lane, London WC2N 4EA

£45.00 Pubs Covent Garden

Overall Diner Rating

 

Based on 4 ratings. Rate it!

  • Wine: £18.50
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12N-11pm (Sun -4pm)

Square Meal Review of Green Man & French Horn ?

The fourth venue from the team behind Terroirs, Brawn and Soif dishes up the same hearty French regional fare, matched with some terrific wines from small organic and biodynamic growers. In this case, the focus is on the Loire Valley, with classic styles ranging from crisp Muscadet and sparkling Saumur to rustic reds from Touraine. Fish features prominently on the Loire-inspired menu, from fine de Claire oysters to a textured dish of clams, coco beans and tomato in a peppery olive-oil sauce – although the stars of a recent meal were perfectly tender rabbit in an intense cider sauce and a ‘winemaker’s tart’ (wafer-thin, buttery pastry topped with sweet plums). The setting is more intimate than big brother Terroirs nearby, with cosy banquettes, candlelight, exposed brick and Tuffeau stone (indigenous to the Loire), while friendly, informed service adds to the relaxed vibe.

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  1. Green Man & French Horn

    54 St Martins Lane, London WC2N 4EA
    Overall rating:
     
    BoatLady

    Blow your own horn,

      Gold Reviewer  (144)

     
    • Food & Drink: 6
    • Service: 6
    • Atmosphere: 6
    • Value: 6

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  2. Green Man & French Horn

    54 St Martins Lane, London WC2N 4EA
    Overall rating:
     
    Wendy P.
        (15)

     
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 10
    • Value: 10

    Was this review helpful to you?

  3. Green Man & French Horn

    54 St Martins Lane, London WC2N 4EA
    Overall rating:
     
    Grumbling Gourmet
      Gold Reviewer  (87)

     
    • Food & Drink: 8
    • Service: 7
    • Atmosphere: 8
    • Value: 7

    Was this review helpful to you?

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  1. Published : Saturday, 30th November 2013

    Dinnerathon. :: The Green Man and French Horn: offaly good..

    Cosy. On a cold November's eve, the wind blustering, the Christmas lights shining (why oh why so early?), we needed a restaurant to warm our cockles, to provide comfort from the Outside. So it was to France we turned, specifically the Loire - stepping inside The Green Man and French Horn, you leave the Outside well and truly behind. A warm welcome, soft lighting and a hallway of a restaurant that somehow makes you feel that it's not just that, we were set up for a night of jollity. Now I had high hopes for Mr Green and his horn, he is backed by the kind of people who know how to run a restaurant. People who have done this before, well. Take Terroirs, a split level restaurant just by Charing Cross serving two different menus, everything excellent. Brawn, another of theirs, may have run out of their namesake last time I was there, but my oh my did the rest of the menu make up for it. Needless to say I hardly came to this most strangely named of former pubs without expectations...
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  2. Published : Thursday, 24th October 2013

    The Food Judge :: Green Man and French Horn. Holy Schist.

    This was the next new thing some time ago and I thought it had had enough time to settle down a bit. It’s an old pub, a small narrow and long one, with a wonderfully welcoming atmosphere, simple semi-industrial décor, plain brick walls and cosy but comfortable seating. And it’s all about the Loire, from the Ardèche to Saint Nazaire. Seasonal cooking, with wine from that region, matching the food. Holy Shist. That’s the wine list. Written with a sense of humour, it was informative and unusual. So unusual that unusually, I needed help. And I was recommended to try a “natural” wine. I didn’t know it was a natural wine though, when they recommended it and I might have baulked. For natural wine is made with the very minimum of technical or chemical intervention. And please don’t confuse it with organic or even biodynamic wines (keep up) – they are entirely different. And there is, apparently, a great deal of controversy around it, partly because there’s no certification system. Or maybe it’s just because it doesn’t actually taste very nice. I’m glad I’ve tried it...
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  3. Sometimes I am the client. It happens quite rarely in my life as a private practice lawyer. Sometimes I even get taken out to eat by other lawyers. And as I am obviously perceived to be a food fascist, I’m often asked to choose the venue. And at one level, the control-freak one, I’m clearly ecstatic to be in control of the destination decision, but then I have to consider what the other person might actually like. And the cost. Oh. A normal person would go somewhere tried and tested, somewhere safe and sensible. A normal person. So I choose to go to somewhere that I’ve never been before, haven’t really heard much about and where they specialise in a style of wine I don’t really like. And even worse, it’s on St Martin’s Lane – home of revolting chains, theatres and too many tourists. Perfect...
    More from Saying it straight »

  4. The Green Man & French Horn is operated by the same people as those behind some of our favorite London restaurant (e.g., Terroirs and Brawn). Similar to its sister restaurants the Green Man & French Horn focuses on French soul food, in this case from the Loire region. And similar to its sister restaurants, as big an emphasis is put on the wine list as on the food menu. It all makes for a very cosy and heart-warming dining experience...
    More from FoodiesOnTheProwl FoodiesOnTheProwl »

  5. Wilson and Barker’s latest restaurant is The Green Man & French Horn. They’ve kept the name of the pub that once graced the site where the restaurant now stands. Located right in the heart of Covent Garden, it’s a quaint little place. But it’s also a tight squeeze with cramped tables and noisy acoustics. The French menu is rustic, homely and comforting...
    More from A Girl Has to Eat - Restaurant Reviews & Food Guide »

  6. Lack of photographic evidence from my restaurant visits can be a result of my appalling skills with the camera, of poor light or, as in this case, simply because I am enjoying the food and company too much to take a lot of snaps. I was the first of our group to arrive at Green Man and French Horn, another restaurant in the group that includes Terroirs, Soif and Brawn. This venue, a few minutes from Covent Garden, focuses on the food and wines of the Loire, an area I visited this summer. But, I was still totally lost when I tried to find a suitable wine, perhaps because my recent trip focused on Chenin Blanc and Savennieres. Winter for me means rich, fruity red wines and hearty dishes of game so my little book of learning about the Loire was totally useless. In the few minutes before my friends arrived I had a chance to look around. Green Man and French Horn is modelled very much in the same style as Terroirs, although all on one level, with one restaurant area and with a rather simpler food offering as a result. I eventually picked a glass of Cheverny to sip while I waited and rather enjoyed the light, fruity pinot noir/gamey blend...
    More from London Unattached - London Restaurants, London Lifestyle, London Events »

  7. Published : Sunday, 18th November 2012

    LONDONcalling :: Green Man and French Horn

    The Green Man is the fourth opening from Ed Wilson and partners.The others, Terriors, Brawn, and Soif are all part of this ever expanding and successful empire. Since opening it has received at least two national newspaper reviews and has been the subject of other positive reviews. This former pub occupies a slim site on the perimeter of a very busy Covent Garden. The interior is bare brick, tile and parquet floors with exposed ventilation pipes. Seating is cramped especially at the rear. It is not possible to hold a private conversation even if you or your near neighbours whisper. Every word is audible. Not good, not good at all. The best tables for two are in the middle of the long slim room, or if you wish you could eat at the bar...
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