The fourth venue from the team behind Terroirs, Brawn and Soif dishes up the same hearty French regional fare, matched with some terrific wines from small organic and biodynamic growers. In this case, the focus is on the Loire Valley, with classic styles ranging from crisp Muscadet and sparkling Saumur to rustic reds from Touraine. Fish features prominently on the Loire-inspired menu, from fine de Claire oysters to a textured dish of clams, coco beans and tomato in a peppery olive-oil sauce – although the stars of a recent meal were perfectly tender rabbit in an intense cider sauce and a ‘winemaker’s tart’ (wafer-thin, buttery pastry topped with sweet plums). The setting is more intimate than big brother Terroirs nearby, with cosy banquettes, candlelight, exposed brick and Tuffeau stone (indigenous to the Loire), while friendly, informed service adds to the relaxed vibe.
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