Occupying the shell of a defunct Chinese restaurant, this spirited Clapham newcomer is no relation to the Abbeville pub just a few doors away. Instead, the long narrow room has been stripped-back and refitted in utilitarian style to accommodate rows of canteen-style tables, with some dangling lamps and an open kitchen at the back. The menu changes every session and offers a lively mix of nose-to-tail Britishness overlaid with sunny influences from France, Spain and Italy. Potted shrimps, Swaledale lamb with radishes and mint, steak pie and rhubarb trifle fly the Union Flag, while plates of Ibérico jamón, macaroni and spinach gratin or roast pigeon with lentils, spring onion and romesco sauce represent the Europeans. Cheeses are from Neal’s Yard and the drinks list takes in everything from Breton cider and Camden Wheat Beer to some intelligently chosen Old World wines.
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