This subterranean Mexican impersonates a sex shop at street level, but make it past the bouncer and you’ll find a dining room convincingly tricked out as an atmospheric wine cellar, with flickering lamps, peeling plaster and barrel-filled alcoves – courtesy of restaurateurs Will Ricker (E&O et al) and Serge Becker (New York’s La Esquina). The Tequila bar offers winningly flavoured margaritas, while the kitchen dispatches ‘fun’ sharing plates that are ‘more sex-mex than Tex-Mex’ – from chilli-hot steak tacos and crab tostaditas to tender chicken paillard lathered in punchy mole sauce or gargantuan Madagascan prawns brushed with garlicky butter. Celebs abound, service is swift – if sometimes ‘disorganised’ – and the timelessly cool soundtrack keeps feet tapping. The bill might raise eyebrows, but you’re paying for the electric atmosphere. Upstairs (and around the corner) is a café dispensing cocktails and greatest hits from the restaurant menu.
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