Sticks 'n' Sushi

I've now been to Sticks ‘n’ Sushi 4 times since opening. The food quality and choice is EXCELLENT!! That's what keeps me coming back.

On our first visit we got a last minute reservation at 6:30 on a Friday night roughly around the time they opened for business. Although they informed us that they would need the table back by 8pm they were very accommodating. We arrived and were greeted very pleasantly and escorted to our table.Our waiter forgot a couple of items we'd ordered and when he brought us our ‘Sticks’ they weren't hot but warm., so not great.My impression was he was sightly overwhelmed. Ok, teething pains. Cut them some slack, I said, they'd just opened. We were then asked if we wanted desert. We ordered but after 10 min the hostess came to inform us that she needed our table and asked us to move to an identical table two places away. Hmmm, Okayyy…I said we were still waiting for our desert but to go ahead and cancel it and bring the bill. I really wasn't prepared to move tables and make a big spectacle just to have a pudding. I told we really enjoyed the food but we would have been ready to vacate for the next customers had the service flowed properly.

Next visit was a week or so later with my daughters . and we had the same waiter and things went well, but it was mid week and quite early. So, there was less pressure.

The third visit was for lunch with visiting relatives and we really thought the food to be outstanding. Although, we did laugh with the wait staff about asking for no ice in future with the fresh fruit juices and it was barley a little gulp to be had.

Fourth visit was again in the evening on a Friday. Again, a warm welcome and a nice lad as our waiter…

Now this is where I'm going to gripe…I really don't like the over familiarity of the wait staff…please don't kneel in my personal space to explain the menu. Please don't take a plate when there is still food in it without asking. Please don't keep topping up soft drinks every two seconds. Please staff, don't group around laughing hugging and being oblivious of customers trying to catch your attention… please make sure there is loo roll in the ladies room ( I did mention this to a waitress and she did thank me and say that's unacceptable and was right on it)

On this last visit,the food again was excellent except for one little problem with the ripeness of the avocado in one of the rolls and the Host was apologetic and quick to replaced it and said Chef wanted to check on it.

All in all, I think this place is great and very welcome addition. I just feel the service is a little annoying with the affected familiarity and lots of attention when not wanted and none when wanted. The problem is the staff are recruited from student unions and that's not a problem per se but they just need training on how to read the signs of service. Once that is done I'd say this place is pretty damn near perfect!!!

Wimbledon isn't know for its wealth of culinary creativity. Wimbledon town is home to a plethora of eateries many of which sadly are more of the Walkabout/Nandos variety. There is even an establishment called Jimmy Spice's “World Buffet” which boasts of its prowess in the fields of Chinese, Indian, Italian and Thai cuisine. (£9.99 for unlimited Tikka masala with your lasagne with your spring rolls anyone?) An impressive breadth of purported skill for any chef.

If you venture up the hill to swanky Wimbledon Village, the inhabitants may be somewhat wealthier but the food on offer to them is still not as high quality and varied as you might hope. There are, of course, exceptions to this rather bold statement; the Lighthouse does a decent supper and I'm dying to pay a visit to the comparatively new Lawn Bistro whose menu sounds lip smackingly enticing but in general I wouldn't race across London at the prospect of eating in SW19. I'm quite sure there may be many delightful establishments in both the Village and Town that I just haven't been fortunate enough to visit yet but from experience so far, that has not been the case. Anyway, having set the scene for the general gastronomic malaise in SW19, back to the matter in hand, Sticks n Sushi.

Ordinarily I would have a rant about the use of the rather irritating “n” in the middle of the name. It could be interpreted as an uneccessary attempt to be trendy, albeit in a rather 90's way. One might ask why the more sedate ampersand couldn't have been deployed ? – ‘Sticks & Sushi’ looks much more classy. However, on the basis that S&S (I'm going to use the ampersand even if they don't) already has nine outlets in its native Denmark I will let it drop. Yes, you did read that right. Nine outlets in Denmark then one in Wimbledon, unusual business expansion plan maybe but one that I very, very much hope will work for them- there is certainly the gap in the market.

Located on Wimbledon Hill in the bit that straddles the area between super posh and well, not so posh, its easily accessible and is going to be a big hit. First impressions of the decor are that this is a pretty huge floorspace (maybe explaining why they opened in lower price per sq ft Wimbledon & not Soho). Decorated in the kind of luxe/industrial that Scandinavians seem to do so well; big silver pipes and ducts overhead, a giant brick print curtain across one whole wall but with low lighting, touches of leather and ergonomic wooden seating to keep it classy.

The cocktail list is not massively extensive but uses more unusual Japanese ingredients and had enough choice that I struggled to make my mind up opting first for a yuzu and whisky creation then later for a yuzu martini. I love yuzu and find it unlike any other fruit flavour despite the fact that it is often described as a Japanese lime. They are, however, virtually impossible to find in the UK. Indeed S&S confirmed that theirs are shipped in monthly from Africa.

Yasaisticks (posh name for raw vegetable bits) with miso dip were tasty with the tip offering a rich and powerful umame flavour. The ubiquitous edamame beans served alongside crackers were also fine.

S&S offer a variety different fixed platters of different size and shape some majoring more on the fish side of things others of the cooked chicken variety. Quirky names like “bankrupt”, “green keeper”, “man food” and “four meal drive” give you a clue as to their content. You can also go down the a la carte route but platters are the most cost effective way to get a taste of lots of things.

A wealth of yakitori options are on offer. From the traditional terikayi chicken type options to the less Japanese sounding goats cheese & ham or beef and herb butter they all sounded divine and (unusually for fussy old me) I could have merrily eaten all of them. There are so many bad examples of how not to do fusion cooking out there so it was a pleasant surprise to find one that really works. Although Japan and Denmark are geographically distant, gastronomically there are certain parallels; clean, simple flavours and presentation and a fondness for fish being just a couple!

We opted for a Sticks n Sushi platter with additional choice for three. Salmon, hamachi, prawn & tuna nigiri all consisted of good quality, fresh fish and well seasoned rice. Hard to say anything beyond that, very nice but nigiri is nirigi really. Large Futimaki rolls were equally tasty: ebi tempura being a favourite.

The yakitori was where S&S really shone for me. The tsukune chicken was a stick of seasoned minced chicken meatballs, asparagus with bacon gave a salty crunch but the best by far was the chicken teriyaki with spring onion yakitori. The sauce went beyond the usual teriyaki and was thick, gelatinous and very moreish whilst the chicken was juicy and grilled to perfection.

Highlights of the Uramaki inside out rolls were the ‘Tuna sparkling roll’ – the sparkle taking the form of some orange shiny roe and the ‘Cut the … roll’ consisting of surimi, sugar snap and sesame.

Dessert was one of the real highlights of the meal. Usually in Japanese restaurants (and indeed in Japan itself) there are not a huge variety of desserts designed for the western palate. Mochi and red bean paste take some getting used to. S&S however, has chosen to take the route of offering desserts with a Japanese twist, for example. The desserts on offer are much more varied and interesting than those listed on their website.

Espresso chocolate fondant was topped with crispy caramelised hazelnut pieces and served with a creamy hazelnut ice cream. The fondant was just molten in the middle- a minute more in the oven and we'd have been in trouble- and the flavour of espresso was prominent without being overpowering. All in all, a seriously good dessert. Creamy green tea parfait held a vivid and deep matcha flavour with the red of strawberry nougat made a colourful contrast on the plate. Cubes of financier added a more solid texture to the dish.

Service was extremely attentive and really accommodating. I'm allergic to avocado which can make sushi a minefield but the chef prepared a special platter for me, not something many places would do on a fixed group menu. Both the yakitori and the sushi were both equal in quality to anything that I tried in Japan last month and, in some cases, much better. High up my list for next time will be the scallop kataifi yakitori where scallops are wrapped in a crispy birds nesty thing and also the ebi bites, looks like a type of prawn popcorn – sounds delicious. I will be back again very soon!

18 April 2012

Nice food, service and atmosphere. Great location with good parking facilities.