Rollicking Brit-themed food is the theme at this dressed-down neighbourly offshoot of Clapham super-chef Adam Byatt’s high-rolling Trinity. From the ‘cutesy’ 1950s interior to menus presented in ‘old school books’, it’s all self-consciously patriotic, with ex-St John chef Karl Goward making a good fist of things in the kitchen. The cooking is a tad rough around the edges (‘messy’ spiced crab, ‘flavourless’ charred broad beans in their pods), but there’s also much to enjoy – from rich, creamy chicken-liver pâté topped with cherry compote to childhood throwbacks such as macaroni cheese, toad-in-the-hole, treacle tart and tapioca with blackcurrants. Bar snacks listed on a drop-down brown-paper roll are pretty good (try the cheese and Marmite straws), prices are fair and there’s an interesting list of British drinks, too – including Freedom organic lagers, Sipsmith gin and Somerset scrumpy.
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