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Chris Corbin and Jeremy King’s jam-packed time-warp tribute to the opulent Parisian brasserie is almost universally adored – not least for its dependable food, surprisingly low prices, long opening hours and all-round fun factor. The stunningly appointed basement dining room is vast enough to accommodate a polyglot crowd of Savile Row suits, curious tourists, scruffy students, footsore shoppers and theatre-goers with its pink walls, pillars, chandeliers and lofty ceilings, while the equally vast, ‘something for everyone’ menu is ‘astonishing value’. Here you will find well-rendered versions of snails in parsley butter, soupe à l’oignon, steak haché and rich choucroute – plus spinach tart, spicy merguez sausages, confit duck, ‘glorious’ floating islands and much more besides. Service remains sharp and courteous (despite the restaurant’s brisk turnover), while appealing wines by the glass and pichet add to the overall affordability.
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