For their latest venture, Chris Corbin and Jeremy King have taken the art-deco grandeur of The Wolseley and The Delaunay, adopted the spirit of a Parisian brasserie, and pitched their prices resoundingly low. Occupying what was once 90s' hotspot the Atlantic Bar and Grill, the vast, gilded subterranean dining room (all marble pillars and shades of pink) is a vision of the belle époque, complete with an A-Z of Gallic gastronomy from ‘musky' andouillettes and beef bourguignon to earthy fish soup, frogs' legs and foie gras. Everything is cooked with gusto, although some plates don't live up to their nostalgic billing: tough onglet steak with ‘cardboard-like frites' and a crumbly, stodgy millefeuille, for example. Even so, Brasserie Zédel is a truly egalitarian restaurant feted for its long hours and all-round performance. You can book, but plenty of tables are set aside for walk-ins.
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