Love it or hate it, this US import comes with ‘plenty of added bling’. Detractors think the dark, glossy interior looks like a ‘TOWIE nightclub’ with ‘very loud… very bad’ music, ‘slow service’ and ‘overpriced’ food, while devotees enjoy letting their hair down in its vibrant, slinky surrounds. Either way, there’s little arguing with Prime-grade USDA beef, served with signature STK sauce and indulgent sides such as truffle Parmesan chips or creamy macaroni cheese. To start, mini Wagyu beef sliders hit the spot, as do scallops with ‘sweet and spicy’ cauliflower purée – although ‘bland’ trifle and ‘tepid’ dishes show that the kitchen needs to aim for greater consistency. The whole place can be ‘strangely devoid of atmosphere’ at lunchtime, but pricey wines and decent cocktails soon get the party started come nightfall.
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