For his first solo venture since leaving Benugo, café monger extraordinaire Hugo Warner has updated the 1950s’ Italian ‘Formica’ café – where, traditionally, new-fangled European imports such as – gasp! – espresso met working-class pockets. Today’s diners, with their spendthrift ways and seasoned palates, can enjoy a menu that mixes retro British and Italian dishes, from hand-cut tagliatelle with meat sauce (to share) to steak-and-kidney pudding – with prices running at £12-£15 per person for a large portion. An unpretentious vibe and communal dining encourage ‘elbows-on-table eating’, while bright-red booths and Formica tabletops ramp up the nostalgia even further. With its pretty alfresco area and bar serving an admirable selection of European wines plus homemade limoncello – Market Café should appeal to neighbourhood hipsters and shoppers browsing Broadway Market.
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