Combining a casual small-plates eatery with the UK’s first pisco bar, Ceviche – owned by Peruvian-English restaurateur Martin Morales – draws diners into its colourful world, plying them with sultry-looking staff, wildly folksy peñas beats and doctored pop-art. The menu wisely focuses on the country’s most bankable foodie exports: guinea pig is out, but seven varieties of the restaurant’s namesake healthy, high-protein marinated fish are very much to the fore. Straightforward reproductions include the house speciality – rough hunks of sea bass marinated in a lively lime-and-chilli dressing (‘tiger’s milk’) – and skewers of tender, smokily charred beef heart. The animated dining room is an elbow-to-elbow affair, but the pisco bar wins as the place to perch: sink a spot-on sour or three, polishing off tempting plates as you go.
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