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After 25 years in the same spot, the Blue Elephant has packed its bags and said goodbye to Fulham Broadway. Its new home, in nearby Imperial Wharf, might miss the ornamental ponds and Koi carp, but floor-to-ceiling carved-wood panelling gives the place a more grown-up feel and the huge riverside terrace is an added summertime inducement. The menu has been given a makeover, but it's still easy to pick a winner: khang khao phuack (minced chicken and prawns in sweet pastry) and a crispy basket of catfish and prawns are standout starters, while red conger curry has been upstaged by an outstanding Benjarong rice dish, served with lotus and sesame seeds. To finish, the stodgy banana and jasmine cake is divine. Ever-attentive service, kitsch cocktails and some interesting biodynamic wines complete the package.

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