A maelstrom of dude food cloaks London, and the speed with which new joints arrive means ‘the queues are finally dying down’ at this early purveyor. A torch app might be a good idea for the far reaches of the ‘Goths-R-Us’ dining room – a distressed bunker located incongruously round the back of Oxford Street’s department stores. Burgers, chicken and hot dogs are the mainstays of a menu that ‘hits the spot’: the dead hippie (a juicy double-decker with cheese and a mustardy sauce) wins copious praise, fries and sides are good, and with kitchen paper replacing napkins, no-one has to dress for dinner. The liquor side is covered by outré cocktails and the rum-based ‘house grog’, while ice cream floats cater for more childish tastes. Despite the ‘affectations’, this is ‘chair-dancing’ stuff for burger lovers.
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