The pop-up residency of trailblazing hipster-favourites The Young Turks has proved so popular that Upstairs at The Ten Bells has put down permanent roots. The entrance my be hard to find in the scrum of suits and Hoxton trendies packing out the pub, but head towards the loos to find the ‘private’ door leading up to a Victorian-style dining room with polished wood and sparkling chandeliers. The set menu format has been ditched for an ingredient-led à la carte (although a snack of buttermilk fried chicken with pine salt is a permanent fixture). On offer are bright combinations of seasonal ingredients – from home-smoked mackerel with horseradish cream and pickled cucumber or pheasant ravioli in crystal clear consommé, to hake on salsify mash with turnip tops. Cooking falls to Ledbury alumnus Giorgio Ravelli who, judging by a whacking-great pork belly slice loaded with hard fat, hasn’t quite nailed the simple-but-generous style, although his execution of a surprisingly straight up chocolate pavé with vanilla ice cream has proved faultless. Service blends laid-back cool with engaging efficiency and wines are another source of contentment, a fascinating selection at ungreedy mark-ups.
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