Set up by the hipster Young Turks chefs’ collective, this “quintessential East End trendy pop-up” is now a permanent restaurant, situated above a drinking den allegedly frequented by Jack the Ripper (and with an entrance as hard to find as the notorious killer). The charming, edgy dining room, with its mismatched furniture and thick rugs, has a homely feel that chimes well with the admirable food on offer here. These days the cooking revolves around an ingredients-led carte based on bright, seasonal ingredients – from treacle-cured salmon (“the best I’ve ever tasted”) with citrus mousseline and kohlrabi or roast mallard with Jerusalem artichokes and curly kale to a dish of Cornish mussels, cider butter and savoy cabbage that “begged to be licked clean”. ‘Express lunches’ are a bargain, service remains über-efficient and the wine list bursts with unusual choices at fair prices.
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