Originally run by the hipster Young Turks chefs’ collective and situated above a drinking den allegedly frequented by Jack the Ripper, this pop-up turned permanent restaurant is decidedly cool. The charming, edgy dining room, with its mismatched furniture and thick rugs, has a homely feel that chimes well with the admirable food on offer here. These days the cooking revolves around an ingredients-led carte based on bright, seasonal ingredients – from treacle-cured salmon (“the best I’ve ever tasted”) with citrus mousseline and kohlrabi or roast mallard with Jerusalem artichokes and curly kale to a dish of Cornish mussels, cider butter and savoy cabbage that “begged to be licked clean”. ‘Express lunches’ are a bargain, service remains über-efficient and the wine list bursts with unusual choices at fair prices.
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