From the perky pastel colour scheme & retro leatherette menus to the thumping soundtrack, the Union Jacks concept taps into a distinctive brand of Britishness that’s got Jamie Oliver’s stamp all over it. Noisy & lively, it could easily be a case of style over substance, but a patriotic focus on native produce & pukka provenance means there’s plenty to applaud. The menu’s main offering is a raft of wood-fired pizzas with crisp sourdough bases and quirky toppings: don’t miss the Old Spot – morsels of soft roast pork with perfect crackling, pungent Cropwell Bishop Stilton & quince purée, alongside fresh apple & watercress. Enticing culinary bookends might range from zingy bloody Mary mussels to bitter chocolate mousse with ‘Gary-baldy’ biscuits & delectable Earl Grey ice cream, & the commendable, all-Brit drinks list deserves exploration.
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