Family-run Kaosarn has proved a spicy hit on Brixton Market thanks to its steamy canteen vibe, knockdown prices and punchy, flavour-packed Thai food. The neighbourhood's new foodies and converts from other parts of town pack the functional cream dining room and squeeze onto outdoor tables by the car park for a roster of super-fresh dishes from the familiar Thai repertoire. Busy chefs in the dinky open kitchen work up a sweat knocking out everything from satays, deep-fried chicken wings, tom yum soup and fragrant laab gai salads to massaman beef curry, hot tiger prawns with bamboo shoots and red chilli paste, or grilled half-chicken served with sticky rice and a green papaya salad. Kaosarn is unlicensed, but its admirable BYO policy simply adds to the terrific value of it all.
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