Perfectly positioned in hip Brixton Market, this steamy family-run Thai canteen attracts a huge following with its uncomplicated, no-holds-barred food. Busy chefs in the tiny open kitchen knock out all manner of authentic specialities at breakneck speed: gau yang (marinated and grilled half-chicken served with sticky rice) is as close to a signature dish as they get – even if it can seem on the dry side by the end of the night. Otherwise, look for satays and soups, excellent som tam (green-papaya salad), stridently spiced curries, sizzling fresh kebabs and big helpings of pad thai. Kaosarn is unlicensed, so remember to bring a couple of mouth-cooling beers with you. Also arrive early or be prepared to queue – although the one-hour time limit on tables means that turnover is fast.
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