The USP at this linear basement off Oxford Circus is a catholic selection of Champagnes. The first UK franchise of similar bars in Manhattan & Paris, Noir's well-kept stock is impressive in its depth: Moutardier rosé, Forget-Chemin Carte Blanche, & Chartogne-Taillet are some of the less ubiquitous marques to savour at well under £100, should a Bollinger Vieilles Vignes 2002 at a cool £1K not pop your cork. At the cheaper end, investigate dozens by the glass from £11, tasting flights of three from £22, & assorted bubbly cocktails – perhaps green kimono (Ciroc, cucumber & melon with sparkling saké). A polyglot snack menu runs from caviar, mushroom crostini & foie gras terrine to mini cheeseburgers, quesadillas & geographically titled spring rolls (a Helsinki, anyone?). It’s comfortable enough, but Flute’s prosaic, spice-toned interior & middling soundtrack hardly exude Parisian élan or high-octane Manhattan glamour.
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