An independent contender in chain-heavy Wimbledon, the Lawn Bistro is already tipped as a serious asset to the local scene. With Ollie Couillaud (ex-Bord’eaux) heading up the kitchen, the fixed-price menu deals in big, bold flavours, from unctuously rich chicken liver and foie gras parfait with an almost overpowering clove-spiced quince chutney to a rather cheese-heavy ham hock and salsify gratin temptingly speckled with black truffles. However, there are no complaints when it comes to assured mains such as beautifully tender pig’s cheek with chorizo and smoked paprika or an elegant dish of grilled bream fillet with a toothsome red pepper relish. Puds are sweet-toothed heaven, from a flambéed baked Alaska (for two) to seriously moreish banana and caramel cheesecake with salted caramel ice cream. Service is willing and cheerful, but needs to focus on the job in hand.
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