Wildwood is a soi-disant ‘small collection’ of restaurants – in other words, it’s a chain. Everything about it, from the bottle of olive oil on each table to the bland blond wood & shelves of artisan produce, smacks of bland MOR ‘concept’ – so it’s a jolly nice surprise to be served some rather good stone-baked pizzas, attractively presented pasta & grills. A tenner goes a long way here: try the ‘superfood’ salad with smoked mackerel & horseradish, spaghetti with meatballs or a baked whole Camembert for two; alternatively, push the boat out for rib-eye steak with fries & peppercorn sauce (£16.50) or whole baked sea bass with fennel & tomatoes. Five-quid cocktails & Italian wines at friendly prices are further reasons to like, if not love Wildwood.
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