Ex-Vama chef Andy Varma’s plush Indian is split into two bijou dining rooms: the first decked out in serene cream, with squishy leather banquettes, heavy chandeliers & cushioned walls; the second in chocolate brown. The kitchen draws on India’s 19th-century palace kitchens for inspiration, but keeps things contemporary: adventurous starters might feature outrageously creamy burrata served with pickled vegetables & a dusting of spice, while full-flavoured sides include zingy pomegranate raita. The menu arranges dishes by cooking style, so you can match tender, headily marinated lamb chops from the charcoal grill with neat squares of spiced tandoori paneer or rich curries from the stove. Prices chime with the affluent neighbourhood, but additional, mid-course surprises add value for money. The wine list stands the spice test, & the service is endearing & prompt.
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