No bookings, a scrawled menu assuming encyclopaedic food knowledge, bare-boned surrounds, hard metal stools and general chaos as new arrivals are squeezed in at the bar – visiting brutally pared-back Ducksoup may sound like something akin to ‘torture’. However, Soho natives are accustomed to such trifles and are happy to queue for the ‘fun, bubbly atmosphere’ and ‘excellent quality’ small plates – all courtesy of three Mark Hix alumni. The freewheeling daily line-up could see slabs of ‘wonderfully rich’ pork terrine, deep-fried Jerusalem artichokes, salted monkfish cheeks with olive oil or finger-licking chicken wings with curry leaves, tahini and yoghurt – plus seasonal ideas such as grilled peaches with orange-scented mascarpone for afters. A well-vetted list of natural wines, plus daily pours by the glass, also demonstrate the outfit’s pedigree. In short, Ducksoup gets a ‘massive thumbs-up’.
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