Former Cinnamon Club MD Rohit Chugh has gone back to basics for this streetwise eatery in the shadow of Selfridges. Roti Chai (literally ‘bread & tea’) trades on independence, value & populist appeal, with a ‘street kitchen & provisions’ on the ground floor & a more organised ‘dining room’ below stairs. Industrial chic meets corner shop, while the all-day menu harks back to Rohit’s childhood days & the nostalgic whiff of ‘mum’s cooking’. On offer are snacky bhel-pooris & Parsee chicken farcha (breadcrumbed nuggets with curried ketchup), ahead of rustic ‘road & rail’ dishes from the subcontinent’s train stations (perhaps lamb & potato curry with chapattis or chicken livers & mince with ‘pao’ bread) – washed down with tumblers of masala chai or wine if you prefer. We loved the zingy flavours & focused spicing, & the presentation has a touch of class that chimes with the airy, friendly setting. While the bill may end up being higher than you anticipated, this is only commensurate with the quality, & it is still possible to eat cheaply here.
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