Following a barrage of plaudits, Fitzrovia newcomer Dabbous has become one of London’s instant hits – it has also made a fully formed superstar of mild-mannered chef Ollie Dabbous, who started out as the unsung hero of Michelin-starred Texture. His self-named gaff is a refreshing antidote to the frippery of old-school fine dining – a stark, Shoreditch-style mix of dulled mesh and metal, bare tables and industrial piping. Against this backdrop, Dabbous and his team deliver impressive value in the shape of dazzling small plates such as crisp, gooey pork belly paired with nutty, caramel-like ‘acorn’ praline, balanced by bitter turnip tops and lively apple vinegar, part of a remarkably priced tasting menu (eight courses for £49). But, for every ‘hot’ ingredient or quirky ‘new Nordic’ combo, the kitchen also applies lashings of accomplished classical French technique – from exceptional home-baked sourdough to an extraordinary barley sponge soaked in red tea with vanilla cream, on the à la carte menu. Service gets top marks, thanks to smart, passionate and humorous staff who clearly love working here.
WINE LIST: Ollie Dabbous’ Gallic cuisine is accompanied by a French-leaning list that majors on food-friendly bottles from Burgundy, Rhône and the Loire. The New World gets a brief look-in, too, with some notable producers on show such as Leeuwin Estate and Pegasus Bay. You’ll find a healthy 14 wines available by the glass and the 375ml carafe, as well as a decent line-up of stickies and fortifieds, including ’98 Château d’Yquem. BEST BUY WHITE 2010 Albert Mann, Muscat Tradition, Alsace, France, £40 BEST BUY RED 2009 Domaine Duseigneur, L’Odyssée, Lirac, Rhône Valley, France. £30
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