Dabbous is a gastronomic game-changer and the current embodiment of new-wave dining in the capital. In place of ostentatious, highfalutin antics comes a refreshing marriage of high-brow cooking with a chilled, of-the-moment vibe. Not surprisingly, this attracts a mixed clientele, from silver-haired financiers to camera-toting bloggers, all lapping up Michelin-starred Ollie Dabbous’ ‘truly innovative’ cooking. Esoteric seasonal ingredients, Nordic aesthetics and ‘wow’ presentation tempered with a heavy dose of restraint blend seamlessly in every meticulous plate: an umami-rich coddled egg with smoked butter and mushrooms served in its shell; wonderfully light mixed alliums dressed with chilled pine infusion; smoky barbecued beef short-rib enlivened with mustard, molasses and dill pickle – sheer brilliance, with comfort and surprise in every mouthful. The space is stark and fashionably industrial, with swathes of metal and wood at every turn; just add ‘absolutely fantastic’ staff and it’s easy to see why Dabbous is ‘in a league of its own’.
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