Dabbous was a mega hit from day one, and has become one of London's hottest (and hardest-to-book) tickets; it has also turned ex-Texture chef Ollie Dabbous into a fully formed superstar and earned his self-named gaff our BMW Restaurant of the Year 2012. This small, energetic place is a youthful antidote to the frippery of old-school fine dining with its stark, industrial interiors and sensational cooking – a palate-challenging procession of ‘faultless' small plates ranging from a coddled free-range egg with woodland mushrooms and smoked butter (‘like a mini fry-up in an egg shell') to barbecued ibérico pork with acorn praline, bitter turnip tops and zingy apple vinegar. On-trend ingredients and new Nordic combos loom large, but Dabbous hasn't lost his classical roots – witness a clever chocolate-and-hazelnut ganache with custard cream. Enthusiastic staff get top marks, and the French-led wine list offers exceptional drinking at this thrilling new-wave bistro.
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