One Blenheim Terrace is already wooing the locals with its terrific set menu (£16 for three courses). Chef/patron Ed Shearf (ex-Ivy) is out to prove there’s more to his post-Covent Garden plans than comfort food: a ‘Scotch egg’ reveals itself as ‘quail egg, foie gras, confit duck, piccalilli & micro-cress’, while a ‘cucumber sandwich’ dessert comprises cucumber & ginger sorbet, cucumber mille-feuille & G&T jelly. But Shearf doesn’t just do ‘fiddly diddly’: a dish of lamb Wellington with smoked mash & pickled red cabbage sauerkraut looks & tastes wonderfully old school. The room has been jazzed up with bold paints & banquettes, but it’s still ‘neighbourhood’, not ‘destination’ – although an attractive conservatory, planned cigar terrace & Sunday brunch may broaden its appeal.
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