In direct contrast to the stark decor of the Marylebone original, the second version of this top-end tapacería goes all-out to create a buzzing yet refined atmosphere. The softly lit, double-height dining room, with two separate mezzanines, mixes ceramic floor tiles & dark wood with shelves of wine bottles, huge posters advertising long-ago entertainments, & a central bar dominated by a stern bull’s head. The menu combines tapas staples (tortilla, Padrón peppers & croquetas) with touches of innovation – think foams, sea urchin aïoli & chorizo ‘lollipops’. The more traditional offerings don’t always pack their expected punch, but head chef César García’s imagination & enthusiasm translate well to dishes such as a spot-on sweet/sour gazpacho made with red berries, beetroot & anchovy. The wine list is impressive, but carries relatively little by the glass.
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