A ‘snug' new-generation eatery from the guys behind Terroirs and Brawn, Soif matches an enterprising ‘natural' wine list with a menu of sturdy Mediterranean-style nibbles such as Padrón peppers, salami and rillettes. There's also plenty of scope for those with serious dining in mind, as pink chicken livers sautéed with capers, sage and anchovies give way to mains showcasing the easy skill of an open kitchen – perhaps perfectly cooked hake fillet with broad beans, crushed new potatoes and bacon or a comforting bowl of braised peas topped with petit salé (‘pure soul food'). Puddings such as cherry and almond tart are unfussy but enjoyable. Creature comforts are sparse – banquette seating, close-set tables, sweet, speedy service – but none of this puts off the locals, who reckon it's a ‘great addition to the neighbourhood'.
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TwelvePointFivePercent :: Soif
It always rather irks me, when reading about a restaurant outside of Zone 1, to see it described condescendingly as a 'good local restaurant', as if to reach it would require a journey worthy of Gulliver and that the preparation of decent food is somehow dependent on the possession of a W1 postcode. To those of us who live in Zone 2 (or - horrors - even further afield) it's the central London gaffs that need travelling to; our local restaurants are just our restaurants, ta very much, and many of them are very good indeed...
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Caviar Girl :: Thirsty for Soif
When I first booked Soif last week I didn’t realise it was a sister of Terroirs in Covent Garden, and Brawn on Columbia Road. My thoughts were that Soif is a relatively new opening which has been a top South West pick for many food lovers and reviewers alike. Without having been to the other two I cannot possibly compare and contrast, however I can whole heartily say that Soif is outstanding in service, food and atmosphere. The décor is rustic; small wooden tables across two levels and blackboard walls covered with chalk. The food is seasonal French with British influence, complimented by a large selection of natural wines stored in a temperature controlled room downstairs. I asked… it is 15C...
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