Ed Wilson & Oli Barker have followed up big-hitters Terroirs & Brawn with this ultimate ‘drop in & stay all night’ neighbourhood venue. The convivial space is simple & eclectic: wine-related cartoons & empty bottles line the white walls, while Clapham chums & couples cluster around the wooden tables between the bustling bar & open kitchen. Chef Colin Westal (ex-Café Anglais in Bayswater) serves generous portions of accomplished Brit/Mediterranean-inspired dishes, from earthy ceps with quivering slices of bone marrow & crunchy pangrattato (a riff on toasted breadrcumbs) to tender pig’s cheeks in full-flavoured cider gravy. The 150-bin, biodynamic wine list offers cute pairing opportunities that get the charming staff thoroughly excited: try the long, nutty finish of an aromatic Sicilian Marsala Superiore as the soothing accompaniment to a delicious warm chestnut cake.
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