A ‘snug' new-generation eatery from the guys behind Terroirs and Brawn, Soif matches an enterprising ‘natural' wine list with a menu of sturdy Mediterranean-style nibbles such as Padrón peppers, salami and rillettes. There's also plenty of scope for those with serious dining in mind, as pink chicken livers sautéed with capers, sage and anchovies give way to mains showcasing the easy skill of an open kitchen – perhaps perfectly cooked hake fillet with broad beans, crushed new potatoes and bacon or a comforting bowl of braised peas topped with petit salé (‘pure soul food'). Puddings such as cherry and almond tart are unfussy but enjoyable. Creature comforts are sparse – banquette seating, close-set tables, sweet, speedy service – but none of this puts off the locals, who reckon it's a ‘great addition to the neighbourhood'.
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