After a couple of years gently bedding in, this Battersea sibling of Terroirs and Brawn has become a frontrunner on the local scene. The focus is on a huge list of organic and ‘natural’ terroir-led wines, although the food is worth much more than a passing glance. Affordable small plates are the mainstays, and the kitchen delivers ‘exactly what you’d expect to eat in France’ – top-drawer charcuterie and honest, well-cooked dishes such as wild-garlic soup, duck rillettes or lamb sweetbreads with romesco sauce. There are also more substantial offerings for those who prefer not to share (pork belly with braised Puy lentils, say), while puds are worth skipping in favour of ‘gorgeous, stinky cheeses’. Booking is advisable, although turnover is fast – hard wooden chairs, high decibels and a general lack of creature comforts see to that.
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