Swedish-born chef/patron Mikael Jonsson has turned his passion for food into a neighbourhood eatery driven by painstakingly procured raw materials. Hedone thrives on a diet of set menus that showcase Jonsson’s restrained approach to cooking & his fondness for stark simplicity – just consider a single grilled baby leek with a sliver of pear, onion & some purée or sliced raw scallops wrapped in nori. Menus vary from day to day, but expect dishes such as roast grouse & juniper-smoked potatoes flecked with potent offal cream or lobster in its shell flanked by green kale & vivid orange coral. Although it’s decked out in neutral beiges & browns, with exposed brickwork & culinary ‘cave art’ scrawled on the ceiling, the dining room manages to feel comfortably informal rather than corporate – thanks in part to its busy open kitchen.
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