L’Atelier Fromages et Vins

With its exposed brickwork, whitewashed mirror frames & tables set with Laguiole cutlery, this snug deli/café has a pleasing, timeless feel. Dominating the scene is a counter teeming with squishy cheeses, rillettes, saucissons & other produce that the English consider delicacies & the French defend as a basic human right. Notice, too, the shelves of wine bottles – all chosen by manager Cédric Chanut, whose stints at Quaglino’s & elsewhere have stood him in good stead as the face of this venture. The menu is elegantly chalked up on a blackboard: simply order a selection of cheeses or charcuterie, & match them with a glass of Les Templiers (the house tipple) or, perhaps, the wine of the week. No wonder the idea is a hit with chic Francophiles & homesick expats.