Sitting snugly on one of Camberwell's finest Georgian streets, this high-ceilinged, high-spec gastropub looks the part with its worn floorboards, metro tiles, vintage lighting and vaguely feminine Toile de Jouy wallaper. The menu is a roll call of fashionable plates ranging from Scotch eggs and duck rillettes to sea bream with samphire, cauliflower purée and crayfish tails, although some ideas work better than others; crunchy crab toast is the perfect match for a punchy yet refreshing gazpacho, but pig's cheeks and spätzle are far-from-happy bedfellows. Sharing dishes such as rich rabbit and bacon pie, roast lamb, and hot chocolate pudding also make this a great choice for a family get-together or a diner à deux. Ales get the thumbs-up and the wine list ventures beyond pub clichés to include some lesser-known producers and grape varieties.
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