Thalassa

In marked contrast to Southgate’s traffic outside, this Mediterranean seafood specialist is relaxing, with stylish leather seating & muted colours. A chainmail curtain divides Thalassa’s long bar from its sizeable dining room, where hefty lobsters prowl in their tank. The Cypriot owner lets diners select the raw ingredients for their meal from the seafood & oyster bar. Plump for the fish mezze (three courses, minimum two people) for a variety of marine life, or perhaps order the pan-fried cod with minted courgettes & langoustine velouté. There’s also the occasional foray east (swordfish with ‘bon jou’ Thai sauce, for instance), plus some meat dishes for inveterate carnivores. At lunchtime, the £8.95 two-course set meal remains a belter. Cocktails & organic Greek wine help things along, as does the well-mannered service & (on Friday & Saturday nights) a pianist.