It wasn’t until Twitter conversations drew parallels between the newly launched menu at Antidote wine bar and Chiswick’s Michelin-starred Hedone that the latter’s chef, Mikael Jonsson, revealed he had been taken on as consultant. Up a flight of stairs, Antidote’s sparse dining area feels far away from the bustling bar where wine aficionados can sup and swirl their way through an extensive array of natural and biodynamic bottles. Given Jonsson’s track record, it’s no surprise that the food is attention-grabbing stuff, driven by carefully sourced ingredients. Our crab and cucumber salad was enriched with a purée of brown crab meat and pointed up with green apples and fluffy cucumber mousse, while silky-soft brill fillet was paired with delectable smoked Jersey royals, before a rich chocolate moelleux hit the decadent high notes. Overall, big flavours make up for decidedly small portions but we can’t help but feel that upstairs misses out on the more convivial fun of the bar area.
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