The Coach & Horses is a lovely, ‘quaint’ pub that feels as if it’s been ‘trapped in a time warp for a generation or two’. But that’s a definite positive: the wood-panelled bar and quieter first-floor dining room are just the place for a pint or proper supper in a hostelry with historic credentials and a ghost or two waiting in the wings. What’s not stuck in the past, however, is the cooking: a clever blend of first-wave gastropub (think Cornish fish stew or heritage tomato salad) and happenin’ dude food – the likes of deep-fried mac ‘n’ cheese or a pulled-pork hot dog with slaw. To drink, thoughtfully chosen wines please guzzlers and sippers alike, while the pumps dispense well-kept ales such as Woodforde’s Wherry and Brentwood BBC2.
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