‘Absolutely incredible!’ is just one superlative verdict on this gently refined neighbourhood star. A ‘sharp’ interior of mirrors and green banquettes plays its part, likewise ‘polished’ service – both owners trained at Wandsworth’s Chez Bruce, so they know a thing or two about local values. However, it’s the stunningly creative cooking that really wows: thick-cut carpaccio of bream with seaweed purée and prawn tempura; cleverly dissected roast poussin with sautéed spätzle, caramelised shallot, pied bleu mushroom and cauliflower purée; crème chiboust with strawberries and honeycomb; and a superb whiffy cheeseboard. It’s all about delicacy, finesse and ‘poised harmonious flavours’. Prices tick the box, too, with one diner marvelling at a ‘world-class’ lunch for just £26. Throw in a much-lauded wine list with lots by the glass, and you have a near-perfect neighbourhood package.
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