‘An adventurous menu for grown-ups' is one reader's reason for visiting Medlar – although others are equally impressed by its courteous staff and ‘charming', if slightly serious, mix of floor-to-ceiling mirrors, muted colours and green banquettes. Set up by two graduates from Chez Bruce in Wandsworth, this ‘really lovely restaurant' shows its refined side with starters of, say, crab ravioli with samphire, brown shrimps, leek fondue and bisque sauce. Familiar steak-based dishes always get rave reviews, but don't miss more intriguing ideas such as wood pigeon with roast foie gras, morels, crêpe parmentier and shallot purée or roast hake with summer-bean ragoût, clams, courgettes and pistou. Finish in luscious style with, say, blackberry millefeuille and lemon curd. A first-rate wine list includes plenty of interesting bins at prices that ‘won't offend' – in fact Medlar offers really all-round excellent value, making it ‘something of a surprise on Abramovich's King's Road'.
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