Hikmat Antippa started his culinary career at J Sheekey in Covent Garden, before opening his first Meza – a glorified kebab shop with a few tables by Tooting Bec station. Now he has branched out with a second eatery on Mitcham Road, opposite the local library. It’s a step up in ambition, although the place is still cheerfully pint-sized, with rug-strewn benches, woven baskets on the wall and a menu that goes straight for the Lebanese heart. Expect a classic run through the mezze repertoire, but with a few bright, enterprising touches (hummus studded with walnuts and morsels of lamb, for example). To follow, high-protein grills and kebabs are the order of the day, including expertly de-boned spatchcock poussin cooked to crusty perfection. There are wines if you want them, but refreshing mint tea generally fits the bill.
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