Arjun Waney & co (of Roka, Zuma & La Petite Maison fame) have expanded their gastro-empire with the launch of Aurelia in the premises formerly occupied by Mulligan’s. Ex-Roka chef Rosie Yeats-Greenslade has been drafted in to run the kitchen, & her menu meanders along the ancient Via Aurelia, working its way from Rome to Valencia – taking in Tuscany, Liguria, the Languedoc & Catalonia en route. Enjoy breakfast & light meals in the gregarious ground-floor space – all toffee-coloured banquettes & shiny surfaces – or descend to the crammed-in basement dining room for something more formal. Most feel the sharing concept is ‘overdone’ or inappropriate, although the kitchen knocks out a colourful mélange of sun-drenched Mediterranean flavours, such as lobster salad with shaved fennel & preserved lemon, pumpkin ravioli with sage & amaretti, or salt-marsh lamb from the rotisserie with anchovies & salmoriglio sauce, plus charcuterie & cheese boards. ‘Lacklustre’, forgetful service still needs to find its feet.
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