The interior of this crepuscular basement intentionally harks back to Jack the Ripper’s Victorian reign of terror, but there’s nothing gloomy or antiquated about its fine cocktails. Based on tinctures and infusions prepared in an open-to-view professor’s lab, the drinks might seem too wacky for school, but they turn out to be top of the form – with high honours going to the exploded vodka martini and tanuki (Yamazaki whisky, Pampero white rum, coconut sugar and peat smoke). Otherwise, swot up on concoctions that harness everything from chip-pan bitters, ‘penicillium roqueforti’ mould, hemp and ‘soil distillate’ to cream that is ‘like baby-formula milk’. You’ll also find wines from £24, Camden-brewed ales, burgers and Victorian buffet staples (pork pies, cheeses, and so on), as well as an atmospheric private room, where vintage gin cocktails are part of the all-in deal.
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