Lyttelton Restaurant at The Stafford Hotel

Only diehard bankers who used The Stafford’s antiquated dining room for private meetings could bemoan its transformation into The Lyttelton’s angelic homage to Georgian grandeur. The food has also been yanked out of the dark ages, although it has retained its British accent – thanks to chef Brendan Fyldes (ex-Bentley’s). His wild Irish smoked salmon with fennel scones & horseradish is a revelation (as it should be for £24.50), although hand-carved ham glazed in bourbon with piccalilli & watercress comes in at a more realistic £8.90, & duck breast with a pasty of leg, red cabbage & black pudding won’t break the bank, either. Puds such as an underworked take on peach Melba follow the seasonal theme, while the wine list is a homage to Burgundy & Bordeaux. Service is friendly if reticent.