Dorsia

Wittily named after the fictional restaurant in cult novel American Psycho, this slick operation also boasts a purpose-built members’ club. The dining room is split into two: one half with a dedicated bar; the other with street views, high ceilings & a cavernous fireplace. Dimly lit & swinging to strains of Frank Sinatra, it provides a moneyed backdrop for some widely appealing food. Intense wild-mushroom raviolo with truffle foam is fast becoming the house signature, though other dishes follow the seasons. On our visit, tender squab pigeon with a tranche of pommes dauphinoise was a happy way into autumn, while a quasi-deconstructed tiramisu topped with a shard of amaretti provided a luxurious finale. To drink, it has to be cocktails; try a red devil (gin, blood-orange juice, pomegranate, sugar & chilli), which might have found favour with the novel’s blood-spattered anti-hero, Patrick Bateman.