‘Bring the fat wallet', advises a fan of this ‘fun' gastro-complex from Russian restaurant guru Arkady Novikov. Although it's often ‘rammed to the hilt' with ‘Euro trash' and new-money oligarchs, well-informed, good humoured staff ensure everyone is welcome – whatever their bank balance. Top marks go to the Asian-themed room – a frenetic space complete with a glass-walled kitchen and a ‘market bar' displaying the day's catch on ice (pick what you fancy). This place cares about ingredients and sashimi is particularly well handled; otherwise expect a ‘greatest hits' menu of sushi, crispy tempura, excellent Peking duck pancakes, salads, roasts and dim sum (shared plates are an excellent-value lunchtime treat; 12 pieces for £15, for example); also ask about ‘market' oddities such as deliciously succulent yellowtail cheek. Novikov's offer extends to an Italian Room serving competent food in more prosaic surroundings, plus a jam-packed lounge bar downstairs.
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