Masquerading as a grungy Brooklyn-style bar, this thoroughbred from go-getting restaurateur Russell Norman embodies the quintessential American concept of ‘grabbing a bite’. Bare brick interiors, filament bulbs, reclaimed fittings, ear-splitting music and a no-bookings policy are par for the course in cool new Soho, while the short menu takes old stateside classics and turns them into tapas plates (‘small in size, but big on flavour’). Highlights run from crisp-coated aubergine fingers with sprightly fennel and yoghurt dip or juicy bone-marrow sliders with shoestring fries to pizzette laden with chewy cheese and Spuntino’s highly praised truffled egg toast. The ‘flavoursome’ cocktail list also means business, so peruse the short, sharp line-up while you queue for a stool at the bar; it can get feisty, but easy-going, clued-up staff nip any frustrated aggro in the bud.
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