Having spent six years as Marcus Wareing’s loyal deputy (including four as head chef), Alyn Williams has finally gone it alone, taking over the flagship restaurant in Mayfair’s swanky Westbury Hotel. His menu of rather ‘polite’ modern dishes is based largely on British produce, with starters such as grouse with red pepper, goats’ curd, watermelon & mint or veal sweetbreads with artichokes, celery & sherry giving way to mains of Herdwick lamb with fennel, lamb ‘bacon’ & parmesan, or venison with beetroot, Swiss chard & pear. To finish, the kitchen plunders the tuck shop & joke box for the likes of ‘walnut whip’ or tiramisu with Nutella brioche. The restaurant’s dining room has been dramatically transformed, so expect a luxe space complete with private dining facilities & a separate wine room. Friendly, polished service matches the surrounds. It’s a big undertaking, & it remains to be seen if Williams has the capacity or stature to carry off such a high-profile venture.
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